Another Inocente’s Parade

Food vendors were the first to set up, and kept the audience fed all night.

This is our third year attending the “Día de Los Inocentes” Parade in Cuenca.  It seemed this year was a bit more subdued than last year (2014), which was our favorite so far.  You can also see our first year (Jan 2013) post here.  You can read our 2014 entry for info on what the parade is supposed to be about. The Cuenca parade has morphed into a combined fantasy, social statement and political satire event. In the past, it included more men dressed in drag.

The political satire was much more subtle this year — some say because of the anti-libel laws passed in 2014 and the general feeling that the Correa government is now censoring criticism.  Unfortunately, my Spanish is not sufficient to ask these people directly, so I am left on the outside wondering why it was so tame this year?

Masks were on sale at several stands.  Many looked like left-overs from New Year’s Eve.

Vendors were selling balloons, bubbles, fireworks, face painting and more.

Amistad Club clowns were the official parade marshals, trying (and usually failing) to keep the audience back.

Many of the parade groups wore large cardboard or Styrofoam heads — many of which I did not understand?

Here are some of my favorite individual costumes in the parade.

Many of the audience dressed up too, even if they were not in the parade.

As a description of the elements of the parade, perhaps it is best to end with a quote from El Tiempo, the local Spanish language daily newspaper.  Here is what they said about the parade, translated via Google Translate:

At 18:20 started the journey of the groups from the intersection of La República and Avenida Huayna Capac, with the parade of children of school NOVA. Then it was the turn Azuay District Scouts, who acted with the theme “Scary Movie Scout”. Young people dressed as zombies, scythes and other characters from the underworld. Next, the students of the South American Technical Institute with his troupe “Chiripiolcas, garroteras and garrotazaos” where combined issues of national political events represented by the characters of comedian “Chespirito”. For example, a very old ambulance logo YESS (We’re Insurance Suffering) to the accompanying figures of the “Neighbourhood Chavo” injuries and ailments, parodied services Ecuadorian Institute of Social Security (IESS). Also, put the South American rhythm when nine “chilindrinas”, performed a dance to the sound of batucada.

Political satire could not miss with the participation of the family Vanegas presented “Mommy will be what you want the black” where the character of US President Barak Obama, dancing alongside Fidel Castro of Cuba and representatives of Latin America and Rafael Correa of Ecuador, Dilma Rousseff, Brazil; Nicolas Maduro of Venezuela; Cristina Fernandez and former President of Uruguay, José Mujica, accompanied the leaders in his Volkswagen Beetle. Also Pope Francisco and Che Guevara, with angel wings, accompanied politicians joked with the audience. Another of the groups that drew public attention was the University of Azuay (UDA), with its theme “Traditional Crafts of Cuenca”. Two women dressed as policemen took the sign with the name of the troupe. Behind them a traditional village band sang popular rhythms to make way for the “seamstresses”. Students developed a sewing machine old giant, whose pedals were driven through the hands of damsels with old dresses. Al artifact students followed him disguised scissors, yarn skeins, reels, tapes, etc. Similarly, trades like selling ice cream cart, photographers Calderon Park, until the sale of the famous hot dog size “Mandingo” were represented in elaborate costumes. The competition continued with the parade of other groups, representatives of institutions and individual presentations.

Dante’s Inferno Is Shrinking

Masks go on sale a few days before New Year’s Eve and are popular with old and young alike

New Year’s Eve in Cuenca, Ecuador is like no other we have experienced around the world.  This is our third NYE in Cuenca, and it seems to get smaller each year?  You can see our blog posts from 2012 here and from 2013 here.  This is now the blog for 2014, so you are already there…  🙂  As before though, there are so many photos to show that I will limit the text to photo captions.

Many elaborate tableaus were created with monigotes (aka ‘effigies’). 22 neighborhoods competed for the best display.

Several full sized monigotes represented various heroes or cartoons. The one in the lower right above won the prize as the best neighborhood monigote display.

People of all ages filled the streets from early afternoon past midnight

The judges for “Best Display” were dressed as clowns, while others dressed as clowns just to have fun

At midnight the monigotes are set on fire, after pinning notes of what the burner wants to leave behind from the old year.  Thus, the fires burn away the old, leaving room for a better New Year

Globos are outlawed since one landed on a church roof and burned it down in 2012. Our neighbor family sent one up anyway — lifting their hopes for the New Year into the sky

Pase del Niño Viajero Otra Vez*

*Parade of the Traveling Child Again

Every Christmas Eve there is a massive parade in Cuenca.  The centerpiece is a statue of baby Jesus that was sculpted in 1823, then carried by Monsignor Miguel Cordero Crespo on a pilgrimage in 1961, where it was blessed by Pope John XXIII.  This is our third annual parade — you can read see our images from 2012 here and 2013 here. We came back with over 1300 photos this year, so here is an attempt to give a small view of what it was like.

The day started out raining.  I first thought that rain would be the theme of this year’s parade, but the rain stopped just a few minutes after the parade started.

Angels were a favorite costume again this year.

Santa was there — mostly a very young Santa though…

Children were the biggest draw in the parade… though many of them tired out before the end…

The military is fully involved — passing out free drinks and parading with bands

Some audience stayed out of the fray, though others joined right in the parade

A few other images I liked, but didn’t fit in any other group above…

Video of some of the dancers at the start of the parade.

Video of some of the military bands in the parade.

Cuenca International Chorale

This is the time of year to hear Christmas music.  In the past two years, there has been a choral presentation at the Old Cathedral on Parque Calderon, which we have gone to.  This year, the group was comprised mostly of gringos for the first time, with the songs both in English and Spanish.

We got there 45 minutes early, expecting to get a good seat, only to find the line already more than a block long.  In a departure from prior years, gringos dominated the line this time — probably because the chorale was also dominated by gringos.

I’ll admit that my expectations were not very high for a group of amateurs performing for the first time.  I was blown away though. The voices were beautiful, and the acoustics of the cathedral are so excellent that their voices floated over the audience with no need for electronic amplification.

Cuenca International Chorale 2014

Christmas Music

Stephanie sings as part of the University of Azuay choir

Cuenca is a city filled with music, as I have said several times.  Now that Christmas is around the corner, there are several music festivals every week.  We were invited to Stephanie’s birthday party last May.  When we heard she was be performing today as part of the University of Azuay choir, we went to hear her. The performance was outdoors. Fortunately the performers were under some heavy trees, as it rained during much of the afternoon.  Portable canopies were erected quickly for the audience.

There were also a series of children’s choirs from local schools performing more Christmas music, both “standards” and new music we had not heard before.

 

Singing The Blues

If you love music, Cuenca is the place to be.  There are musical performances pretty much every week.  Many are free, or have a small cover charge.  Tonight we had dinner at La Parola, and listened to Bobcat Jack perform his style of Blues.  He popped up on the Cuenca scene while we were on our recent Iceland / New York vacation and seems to be playing every restaurant in town with a stage.  Jack is primarily a Blues musician, though he mixes in some Jazz. He is known for his interaction with the audience and modifying the standard tunes on-the-fly to reference local places and events (“I’ve got the blues in Cuenca”).

Unfortunately it was too dark for me to record any video of him, but you can go here to see his official videos.

As we left Bobcat Jack’s show, we discovered there was a free street show going on right outside the restaurant.  We stopped for awhile to listen to them too.

UFO Vans

The Cuenca futball game had just concluded at the Stadium a couple blocks away, so that is where all the people walking through my video were coming from.  Cuenca won their game tonight, but are in 6th place, so not really in contention for the national playoffs.

Wrapping Up New York Again

Our time in New York City is coming to a close. Today we walked more of downtown, came across a kid’s skating rink, a small park devoted to gay & lesbian couples, and went to the Mecca of Apple Users everywhere — the 5th Ave Apple store. We were glad we didn’t actually have anything to buy there though, as it was a packed madhouse and would have been near impossible to actually make a purchase.

Last night we went to the Cornelia Street Cafe to listen to the Rhythm Future Quartet, a talented gypsy jazz group.

Tonight we listened to a jazz vocalist named Roz Corral at the 55 Bar. Below is a portion of her Anyone Can Whistle performance. A night of “bar hopping” for us means going to two different bars in one night, so we then ventured over to a piano bar called Mezzrows.

Roz Corral singing Anyone Can Whistle on Vimeo.

White Thanksgiving

Finally! The snow we have been expecting for the past two weeks in Iceland!  Only one problem… we are now in New Jersey rather than Iceland… 🙂

We returned to New Jersey to spend Thanksgiving with our long-time friends again, only to discover it snowing here, and much colder than it was in Iceland during the last two weeks.  Evelyn had been saying she would like a white Christmas — well at least she got a white Thanksgiving…

We spent an enjoyable afternoon at Radio City Music Hall in New York City with Zoya and Alice (Vladimir had kitchen duty making dinner), watching their Christmas Spectacular show.  It is always amazing to see so many dancers with such split-second choreography and synchronization.  Almost doesn’t seem possible.  There were also a couple of “engineering feats” in the show that got me scratching my head.  How did that teddy bear blink his eyes, and how did those orbs fly in a controlled manner with no visible wires or manner of locomotion??

We returned and stuffed ourselves on a full traditional turkey dinner, then retired into the media room (yep, they have one!  I am so jealous… 🙂 ) to watch a slideshow of our Iceland photos.

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