Vietnam #5 – Traffic and People

Here is a photo of the motorbike traffic below our hotel room in Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon)– it was madness. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City were the only two cities where the guide had to show us how to safely cross the street. There were so many vehicles that to cross the street, the guide would have us line up horizontally in a line, almost holding hands, then walk at the same pace to cross the street. This way, the motorbikes could pass us in front or behind us without missing a beat and without putting on their brakes.

Motorbikes are the transportation preference of choice on the crowded streets of Vietnam. It is normal to see entire families riding on a single motorbike. It was not clear to us whether there was a helmut law in place, since helmets were common, but not universal.

There are almost 100 million people in Vietnam, which ranks #16 in total world population. It is approximately 3/4 the size of California, which has 39 million people, so the population density is very high. It is considered a lower-middle income country by the World Bank but with a low cost of living. In Asia, it is ranked 16 among the richest countries in Asia, so there is a lot of buying power in this economy.

We are always amazed at the energy level of kids, who generally accompany their parents to work or daily activities. Kids these days are accustomed to getting their photos taken with mobile phones, so they are not shy in front of a camera.

In Vietnam, a photographer does not need to hire models. The people generally enjoy getting their photos taken. Several photos above are taken at the Forbidden City in Hue, one in front of Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The couple in the lower-right image were newlyweds on their honeymoon, and enjoyed performing for photographers.

More photos of people in Sapa, North Vietnam. You can generally tell which regions they come from by the distinct color and patterns of their clothing. People love selfies, and at times hire professionals for instagram photo ops. Sapa is located only 20 km from the Chinese border, so if you turn left, you go to Sapa and if you turn right, you end up in China. 12 years earlier, we could only reach Sapa using the overnight train, though now there’s a new super highway.

In general, it appears to us that the Vietnamese people were happy. Vendors in the market interact together, often making for interesting photos. More and more, they are glued to their mobile phones (top-center). Sy, our local tour guide, took us to her home to meet with her mother (lower-center) and family.

There were large numbers of graduating students at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi getting group photos taken with their classmates (top row) at a Confucius Temple which is the first national university in Vietnam. This is a special relic in Hanoi where students come to wish for good exam results. The post office (bottom left) is an architectural delight, where it is still available to buy postage stamps and souvenirs.

More images from various temples, including from the Chinese Temple known as Thinh Hou (bottom right) in Saigon.

Miscellaneous photos, including the Japanese Bridge in Hoi An (middle), which is the oldest bridge in Vietnam. There is quite a large brick making factory with numerous domed kilns lining the horizon on our river boat cruise (Upper left). At one of the lunch stops, we loved where the roosters lined up to get their photos taken (bottom-left). Whenever there was an opportunity for a reflection shot, we stopped (bottom-right and top-center). That is the nature of photography tours. We’re always chasing the light.

Scenes from our Vietnam adventure, including motorbike traffic on the street below our hotel, incense making, cultured pearl making process, the chicken vendor, demo on how to tie a scarf at Thai Village, boat ride to caves, noodle factory, floating market.

Vietnam #4 – Hanoi, Sapa, and Pearls

At sunset, we shot the famous Tran Quoc Pagoda in Hanoi, the oldest Buddhist temple in Vietnam, which dates back to the 6th century (bottom). This 1500 year old landmark is located on a peninsula on the east side of Hanoi West Lake, and the mirrored reflection was perfect..

While we were photographing the Long Bien Bridge (top) at sunrise in Hanoi, a group of local swimmers jumped in the river for exercise (top-right). They looked much like members of the polar bear club in San Francisco Bay, where people swim in cold water, though the water here was not so frigid. During commute hour, the roads are packed with motorbikes (lower-right).

We have seen many open air markets around the world, and are always looking for vendors or products that are unique. For the first time, at the Sapa Market, we saw dogs being sold as meat (upper left). That felt creepy to us, seeing pet dogs sold as food. Then, there were the baby ducks (lower-right), that were not the classic baby chickens that we usually see. As always, the markets were quite colorful.

We enjoyed seeing how cultured pearls are produced. At Halong Bay, there is a well done exhibit of the process. It entails a surgical procedure to implant an artificial bead into the tissue of a pearl oyster (center). The finished pearl jewelry seemed to be high quality and sold at reasonable prices (bottom-right). There were photos of celebrities on the walls who purchased their pearls, including Queen Elizabeth, Michelle Obama, and Sofia Loren. The large store is located at the entry port where we caught our Ha Long Bay cruise.

Enroute, we stopped at one of the many marble sculpture showrooms, where we could see the carvers in action. Above are just a few items we were not able to fit into our already overweight suitcases.

Enroute to Hoi An, we stopped at a restaurant for lunch, and this was clearly one of our favorites. All the sea creatures were so fresh that they were still swimming in the aquariums, and we got to select what to eat. The restaurant then prepared the meals. We always eat well on Mehmet’s tours.

Vietnam #3 – Life on the Mekong

The Mekong River Delta located in southern Vietnam is the major water source for many people. The Mekong Delta in Vietnam’s is also their most important fishing area and Vietnam’s rice bowl, which is intensely developed for agricultural production. Above is a fisherman in Hue at sunrise.

Some 20%, or 21.5 million people live in the Mekong Delta in an area that occupies 40.6 square kilometers. It is the home to various floating markets, swamps, manufacturing, temples, fishing ponds, fruit orchards, and colorful villages. The Mekong River is the main means of transportation in this area. When we first visited Vietnam some 12 years ago, we saw how the water level impacted people’s lives. During the wet season, the family sometimes had to move all their furniture to the second floor, as the river rose above the ground level of their home. The weather was more normal this time, so we were able to view the people in a more natural environment.

Can Tho is the fourth largest city in Vietnam and home to various floating markets, and a great place to start exploring the Mekong delta region. A number of canals snake through, so the region is teeming with life. We visited several smaller villages along the Mekong. We enjoyed seeing some of the boats painted with stylized, protective eyes in Da Nang (right center). Legend has it that these eyes protect against evil spirits and monsters lurking in the river.

We were greeted by a number of retail vendors, trying to sell us breakfast foods, such as baos, fresh pineapples and coconuts, Vietnamese coffee, rice. Several people on our boat did buy some snacks, and our bau (a sweet bun with pork in the center) was one of the best we have eaten.

Every day, the markets start up around 5:00 AM, and by noon the market action is finished for the day. We caught the Cani Rang Floating Market at sunrise and for a brief moment, the yellow-orange skies lit up and the river transformed into a caramel color.

As we floated among the early morning market, we also had a chance to see how people live on the river. Above is a small sample of the hundreds of such photos we collected that morning.

We will end this post with one more of our favorite images from the morning fisherman with his massive net that he used to catch a half dozen fingerling size fish that he would later use as bait for catching food more suitable for his home table.

Vietnam #2 – Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay, named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 and 2000, is located in the northeast part of Vietnam. It is known for its towering limestone islands and emerald color waters. We were first here 12 years ago. The islands were not accessible to tourists at that time, so it was a treat to be able to go on a 2-day cruise and see both sunset and sunrise. The above image shows the kissing rocks.

Burt was able to capture Ha Long Bay with his drone from our cruise boat, where we spent the night. We were also treated to a cooking class demonstration where they made spring rolls.

Ha Long Bay was officially recognized as one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world on 11/11/2011. We were lucky to capture the sunrise early in the morning on Ha Long Bay. Emerging from the emerald green water are the towering karst formation limestone rock with jungle at the top. It was quite memorable to experience.

Our cruise boat (top left) is the one with the covered dining area and bar. The tour of the Dark and Bright cave in Ha Long Bay (lower-right) was a delight, and is located where Lan Ha Bay meets Halong Bay. Our lady boat captain was quite an entrepreneur and her photo (lower-right) is one of Evelyn’s favorites. Our boat lady knew when the best moments were for her guests to wear the Vietnamese hats she brought on her boat, and to photograph our group wearing her hats. She was also exuberant and photogenic. Of course, she was well rewarded with tips.

The wrap-up blog post (coming in 3 or 4 days) of this trip ends with a photo she took of all of us in Vietnamese conical hats on her boat.

Here’s a view of our cruise boat on Ha Long Bay(also spelled Halong Bay). While most of Ha Long Bay is quite touristy, this part is less crowded and quite pleasant.

Vietnam #1 – Rice and Incense

The rice terraces in the Mù Gang Chài district in northern part of Vietnam are stunningly picturesque. While rice is grown on relatively flat plains in the centre and south, in the North, they are grown in spellbinding terraces carving up mountainsides reaching to the sky and are quite spectacular. While you can enjoy the beauty of the terraces year round, September and October are when the stalks are golden and full of rice. Here are few images shot from Burt’s drone.

The rice terraces are located approximately two hours drive from Sapa, where we visited 15 years ago. Sapa was previously only accessible by train, but now there’s a new highway with easy access via bus or car. For some of the rice terraces, we drove to La Pan Tan where we had lunch in a home-stay to photograph the rice terraces. For other rice terraces, we all rode up to the top of the mountain on the back of motor bikes on narrow dirt trails to the top. It was spectacular, yet a somewhat terrifying ride.

Our guide, Sy, modeled for us in the rice terraces with horse shoe shape, where she was leaping down more than 5 feet between terrace layers, and yet managed to keep her white shoes totally clean. Sy was voted by our group as our favorite guide, as she dressed in traditional clothing to pose for photos. Later, she took us hiking to her home village to meet her family, where we crossed a flooded bridge and got our feet soaked.

Outside of Hanoi is the Huang Phi Tau Incense Village, where we explored colorful incense stick making. Incense is widely used in religious practices when practicing meditation. Burning the incense releases the fragrances, which relate to the color of the coating. Burning incense can be effective in stimulating various sensory receptors.

We also saw the workers in action, making incense coating using traditional craft techniques and watched them set in bundles to dry. We saw the bamboo being chopped, dipping the sticks in dye, creating the incense paste, then bundling the incense. One maker had a machine that extruded the base, added the incense dye, and ejected the finished product (center), for the worker to collect and gather into a bundle (top-left and lower-right).

We photographed a model from a high vantage point in a sea of bright red and other color incenses. The incense sticks come in many colors, each with its own fragrance, and the displays are an instagram favorite for selfies. We were able to capture some photos of a model from the mezzanine above and a ladder (top-right and middle-right).

Later in the morning after enjoying the sunrise at the floating market, we photographed the noodle making at the Can Rang floating market in Can Tho, Vietnam. This market is located near Ho Chi Min City, which was formerly known as Saigon. We sampled the dried noodles, which was a treat for us.

Here’s a “little planet” of the rice fields shot with Burt’s drone, made from 32 photos in a 360 degree circle, then combined in Photoshop.

Laos #3 – Luang Prabang and Surrounding Area 2

Luang Prabang was an ancient capital located in northern Laos, and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Center in 1995. It is a well developed town, fusing traditional Lao urban architecture with the French colonial architecture. Laos is the only landlocked country in the area and has been isolated from the rest of the world, called “Asia’s forgotten country”. It was designated the Least Developed Country and one of the poorest countries.

We cruised down the Mekong River to see the Pak Ou Caves (lower center) and explored the night market with Wat Luang Prabang in the background.

Shown above are terraced rice fields, which account for 50% of the national agricultural output.

Primary school classroom at Xiengmen Village, along Mekong River. The kids were quite animated. See the video at the end to see how the rooms sound during classes.

We also visited a school for monks with some 300 students. Like in many schools, you have enthusiastic students as well as bored ones. There was even one young monk playing video games in class (lower-center).

We visited a couple of local weaving villages on our cruise down the Mekong River. Although the villages were relatively poor, the people seemed genuinely happy to see visitors.

Shots from local villages, Phousi Market, and photo of actors at Vat Xiang Thong Temple where a documentary was being filmed about the temple (center-right).

More scenes of people from the local villages. Kids are accustomed to getting their pictures taken due to the proliferation of mobile phones.

We will close our Laos report with a short video of Laos monks and kids learning to read.

Laos #2 – Luang Prabang and Surrounding Area 1

Tucked in the jungle is Kuangsi Waterfalls, a 3-tiered waterfall located 18 miles south of Luang Prabang. It is known for its milky turquoise color and its tranquil setting.

We got up by 5:00 AM to watch the monks collecting alms early in the morning around the Wat Xieng Thong Temple.

Along the Mekong River, we stopped at a sea weed village where they make a local snack called Kaipen (fried Seaweed). It is made with a freshwater algae harvested from the Mekong River, rinsed, then pressed into a paper-thin sheet and seasoned with garlic, sesame seed, and sometimes prosciutto.

There are some 33 Buddhist temples in Laos. One special place is a sculpture park with over two hundred statues of Buddha in different postures called Buddha Park. It is also referred to as Wat Xieng Khuan, and is located 25 km southeast from Vientiane, the capital of Laos. The garden not only has Buddha but also Hindu gods, and worth a visit.

Laos #1 – Fire Boat Festival in Luang Prabang

The Laos Fire Boat Festival  / Festival of Lights is one of the most spectacular festivals of Laos. It’s more correctly called the Festival of the Boats of Light, or Boun Lai Heua Fai in Laos.   It is essentially the celebration of two things – the beginning of the dry season and the end of Buddhist lent. The date of the event changes each year as it is tied to the lunar calendar, and this year, festival finished on October 30, 2023, which is the day that we visited it.

Lent in Buddhism is a 3-month period in which Buddhist monks retire to the temple to devote more time to meditation and to gain a greater understanding of the Dhamma, which is the truth taught by Buddha. In seeing the Boun Lai Heua Fai you’ll be seeing both the celebration of the end of the retreat of the monks and also the end of the wet season in Laos.

Each of the 21 handmade floats is made from bamboo, banana trunks and colored paper. They are built for the festival by each family and each float was at least 25′ in length. In the evenings, various groups march down the parade route with their boats lit with live candles, live bands and dancers, singers and chanters. The floats were carried in front of judges who vote for the most beautiful float, then carried down to the Mekong River. Often times, the candles would have to be relit if blown out by the wind along the procession route. As night falls, these floats are launched onto the river, some set aflame as sacred offerings to the water spirits.

Vahn was our guide for this portion of our tour. His family was visiting the festival too, and he introduced us to them (left). This is a time when families typically gather together to pray at one of the temples, give offerings, and share a meal together. The image on the right is one of 33 wats (temples) in Luang Prabang lit by candles that were shaped like lotus flowers.

Some form of the festival of candle lights is a tradition found in many cultures. In Laos, this festival is linked to the agricultural season.

In Luang Pradang, the event is small enough where you can still walk around and experience the intimate moments.

.Many of the candles surrounding the temples were lit by the monks and by young monks-in-training. Many floating votives were available for sale for people to launch their own offerings down the river to bring good luck.

Turkey #8 – Travelers

We are the Travelers….We often enjoy joining small group photo tours with less than 10 people, such as Mehmet’s. We hate seeing so many tourists wherever we travel, so we label ourselves “Travelers”. First, all the travelers in our group have common interests – a passion for photography combined with travel to exotic destinations and love of good cuisine. During these tours, many of us become life long friends, and often we meet up with the same friends on subsequent tours somewhere in the world. Often, there are a lot of shared stories, laughter, and even whining about the time to get up for sunrise shots. There are often very long days, packed with activities. Often, there’s no free time to sightsee and souvenir shop.

Sub (upper left) is a retired petroleum engineer, who has lived in India, California, Washington, Africa, and Europe, (and is a worst gadget freak than Burt!). He has also been on numerous exotic photo tours, including one to India just a few weeks after our tour ended.

Gabrielle and Michel (center-right), is a retired couple who live in Portugal. They traveled with us to Iran on an earlier trip with Mehmet. They have been on many wildlife photo tours that we secretly covet, and are phenomenal photographers. They have been everywhere from Antartica, Galapagos, Brazil, to Africa and more…Here is their website link.

Shelly (lower left), the oldest young person we know, and has more energy than we do. She has a real knack for making friends with strangers to get photos. She also hooked us on the game Wordle. You can check out her photographs on Blog.shellyrosenberg.com.

Terry is a retired research scientist from Vancouver. She is also well traveled and a very talented wildlife photographer. Here is the link to her website.

Sue and Rich (lower right), are friends we met on our first trip to Turkey 7 years ago, and also traveled with us on the Stans tour. Both of them have a great eye for composition. Enroute home to Minnesota they will stop in the Netherlands to see their grandchild. Sue’s photos can be found on her facebook under Sue Jacobson.

Burt and Evelyn (us) are documenting their travels in the form of a travel blog. It’s getting harder and harder for us to make these trips. Stairs are harder to climb, hills are trickier to navigate, and our energy level is lower. It has taken a month longer to finish processing the images for this blog. Check our blog and photo galleries.

Mehmet, our tour leader, has precisely mapped out every hour of our time from pre-sunrise to after the blue hour in the evenings. Yes, our days are filled and often we fall asleep right away, then we whine the next day about the long hours. Here’s the link to Mehmet’s website.

Trying to organize a bunch of photographers is like herding cats. Every photographer is quite independent in their pursuit of a great photo, and less interested in the history and facts of a monument or landmark that tour guides try to present. The quality of the light is more important to us.

Here is a short video to help give a better feel of what it is like to wander among the bazaar. We concentrate here on some of the various craftsmen at work, producing the wares they will then sell in their stalls.

And finally, here is a photo of the two of us. This photo was shot by Gabrielle while we were on the boat from Akdamar Island. We are already on our next adventure (Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Australia and New Zealand), so stay tuned for more travelogue from the two of us. We hope to see these fellow travelers again on another adventure in the future!

Turkey #7 – Gaziantep

We are enroute to Gaziantep, the sixth most populous city in Turkey. It is a diverse community populated mostly by ethnic Turks, plus Kurd and Syrian refugees. When we drove through town, we saw substantial damage from the Turkey-Syria 7.8 earthquake, which was followed by a 7.7 after shock, on February 8, 2023. We learned that the safest place to stay during an earthquake is next to a washing machine or refrigerator, rather than under a door way, which might collapse.

The next morning, we stopped to see the beehive domed houses of Harran, a village inhabited since 6,000 BC by the Skellig monks. These homes mimic a beehive architecture, with no windows, and are clustered together like a termite colony. The structure is shaped with a stone cone, to create a roof without timber. I has now become quite commercialized, but you can still the appreciate simple adobe homes. The houses are rectangular on the inside and round on the outside, and carefully built to prevent rain from penetrating the home.

Passing through the city of Gaziantep, we enjoyed seeing traditional musical instrument stores with craftsman who are still making the traditional instruments. One was a kamancheh (center), a bowed instrument like a Persian or iranian violin without a rosette, and played like a violin with 4 strings.

There were many colorful and souvenir shops in the old city of Gaziantep.

We visited an artistic neighborhood of Gaziantep and photographed the narrow streets with the historical houses, lined with metal sculptures.

We then toured Zeugma Mosaic Museum, which houses the biggest mosaic museum in the world. This is considered among the top archaelogical treasures in Turkey.  Stunning ancient greek and roman mosaics are displayed, mostly intact. This was the first museum we saw that had Selfie stations.

The “Gypsy Girl” is displayed in a special place, like the Mona Lisa (center).

We had a chance to photograph the birds Bald Ibis, in the birds sanctuary of Birecik, which is a reproduction center to increase the Bald Ibis population. The little museum was well done.

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