Random Walk Through Cuenca, Eduador

Now that we have been in Cuenca, Ecuador for a week, we are starting to settle in and our initial routine is taking shape. I came down with a 24-hour flu last night, and have barely able to get out of bed most of today. I thought this might be a good time to take a random walk down some initial observations and thoughts about this city sitting high in the Andes on the equator.

DVD’s here are an easy home entertainment.  There is no Netflix available, but when you can buy the latest Hollywood release for $1.25, who needs to bother with rentals?  Yep, go into any of several DVD stores in town and pick out Men In Black 3, Expendables 2, Taken 2, etc and get 4 for $5.  Take them home and discover they are the same DVD that you would have bought back home for $20 each.  Almost all are in English.  Some have Spanish subtitles (good for learning the language), while others have a language option allowing you to play it in English, Spanish or Portugese.  And yes, they are pirate copies…


The sidewalks here are pretty narrow, allowing 3 people shoulder-to-shoulder in most places.  Schoolgirls are a plague, often seen walking arm-in-arm 3-abreast, talking rapid fire as only schoolgirls can, oblivious to anyone coming the other way — those others just need to get off the sidewalk to make way… 🙂 (Note: This particular image I captured has the girls eating ice cream rather than arms locked, and this is one of the wider sidewalks in town, but the girls act the same regardless of space, and “own the sidewalk”)

Car sirens are a common sound downtown.  Like a child crying wolf, they are ignored though.  I heard one siren yesterday, and noticed a policeman 1/2 block away that did not even bother turning his head to look.  The alarms have no value when they are heard so often…

There is a surprising amount of jiggle in the midriff of schoolgirls walking down the street.  Everyone in the city walks a lot, and there are hills to conquer.  The food here is fresh and American fast food can only be found in the malls at the very edge of town.  So why are the girls so fat?  Not really American-style obese, but definitely heavier than we see in many other countries.  Surprising…


Taxis are ubiquitous and cheap.  $2 gets you anywhere around town, with $2.50 to go to the outlying malls.  Of course most Ecuadorians make under $5/hr, and many make under $2/hr, so it only appears cheap to us.  We only use the taxis ourselves when returning from a mall resupply trip, or perhaps when returning from the other end of town late at night.  Walking is a way of life here, and I hope to come home needing new pants… (Note that the 6 taxis active on one block downtown, as shown in this photo, is a very common site)


Spanish school is unsettling at this point.  More on that once I can figure out just what I think about it, and perhaps make a change in my approach.

It is COLD here at night.  At least it seems that way to us.  We bought a room heater when we were here in February, and were pleased to have the apartment manager return it to us our first night here.  We have met other gringos that say they like the temperature though, so maybe we have just gotten soft.  Regardless, our heater is on from around 7PM through 9AM every night so far.

Rain is less predictable than we thought. On our February trip, it rains promptly at 4:00 every afternoon, and was done by 5:00.  This time we have had it rain at night, in the morning, in the afternoon, and not at all.  Local Cuencanas all say the weather cannot be predicted, and I am starting to believe they are right.

Gringos seem to be everywhere.  Walking down the street, most of the people are certainly locals, and Spanish is the most common language.  However, it seems you can’t walk more than 15 minutes before hearing another English conversation between couples, or see someone that is clearly a gringo — sometimes only a couple minutes between contacts.  We had dinner with an American that has lived in Mexico & Ecuador for the past 23 years, and she tells us that is because we are walking in the Central and Commercial districts, but that English is rarely heard where she lives.

Smoking is almost nonexistent.  I think I may have seen 4 or 5 men smoking cigarettes in week we have been here. No cigars and no women smokers. Yeah!

And let’s not forget to mention how friendly everyone here is.  At home, I eat at several restaurants for lunch, and after 7 years, do not know the names of any of the waiters, and have never once met anyone else eating in a restaurant, unless it was someone I knew from before.  We have been here less than a week, and have already met close to a dozen new friends, several of which we have followed to other venues, and exchanged emails with tips and hints.  It is taking me a little bit to get used to this new way of thinking about “strangers on the street.”

[Art + Food] Vampire’s Bite At Sofy’s Orchard

Benigno Malo 5-72 y Juan Jaramillo

Even more than most, Sofy’s Orchard is a hard-to-find restaurant. If we had not had that address in hand when looking for this new restaurant, we would have ended up eating elsewhere. We walked past it twice before counting off the address and found where it must be, finally finding it in the back of a courtyard of small stores.

They have only been open 2 months, but have already received very good reviews on several blogs.  The almuerzos was delicious, though at $4, it is twice as expensive as most other places in town.

One thing that sets this eatery apart is a new tradition of Friday afternoon modeling sessions.  These are free to anyone that wishes to come, though drinks and lunch are available for purchase.  Anyone is free to bring a camera or drawing/painting materials.  We went back today (Friday) for their theme of:

Vampire’s Bite

5 models came in from Mudo Dubujo, and they provided very professional modeling for all involved.  I counted 8 cameras and 7 pen/pencil artists among the audience.  I was one of the cameras, with Evelyn being one of the pen artists.

At one point, an extra bit of realism was inserted.  Near the end of one 15-minute pose of a woman being bitten by a vampire, the victim actually fainted!  All was well after a few minutes, and the show went on though.

Here are a couple of my photographs from this session, followed by a couple of Evelyn’s drawings fro this session:

[Food] Eucalyptus Cafe (Cuenca)

I was originally thinking of writing a post for every restaurant we ate at here in Cuenca, Ecuador.  It very quickly became clear that would really need a separate food/restaurant blog, and that it would not really be very interesting to most people.  Instead, I will try to create a post only for the really good restaurants that we visit.  That is, those that we plan on visiting again multiple times during the next few months.  I may do a summary post now and then on the other restaurants that we were not so thrilled about.

Without further ado, we present our first excellent candidate: Cafe Eucalypus:

Gran Columbia 9-41 y Benigno Malo

284-9157   or   091-001740

http://www.cafeeucalyptus.com/

Can you find the restaurant in that image above?  Is it open?  Very few restaurants in Cuenca have very much of a sign, so that half-hidden sign high up on the wall is actually better than most.  In looking at the sign though, I would have sworn the restaurant was closed, since all 3 doors below the sign are closed.  Nope. That open door on the far right is how you get into the restauant.

I neglected to take any photos of the interior, which is a shame (Note to self: photograph more than just the door and the food in the future!).  Very nice ambiance inside, covering two floors, and including a rather massively stocked bar. 

As with almost every restaurant we have visited this week, we had the place almost to ourselves.  There were two other gringo couples there, and that was it.  We have been told that this is the slow season, which is why several (other) restaurants are just now opening, so they can shake out the kinks before the crowds start arriving next month.

The food here was all absolutely excellent! The only negative was the house white wine — if you like wine, steer clear of this stuff that tastes like it was crushed last week…

The menu is much larger and more varied than anywhere else we have seen in Cuenca.  It included categories for soups, appetizers, spicy appetizers (yep, two groups just for appetizers), salads, pasta, seafood, beef, deserts, and curry.

We started with a fabulous vegetable soup.  It is common to have a large chunk of avacado floating at the top of many Ecuadorian soups, and this was no exception — I just forgot to take the photo until after we had cut it up and stirred it in…

We followed that up with a delicious…. you know, I think I need to start taking better notes, because I can’t remember what that was, but wow, did it taste good! 🙂

The next table over had another gringo couple.  When their food arrived, I couldn’t resist asking if I could photograph it.  Thus, we met Betty and John from Klammath Falls, OR who are celebrating their 50th anniversary, and were traveling with an alumni group that came for Spanish classes. This was Jim’s meal of Malaysian Beef.

Betty had Tad Puy.

[Food] Mate de Coca — Cocaine For Altitude Sickness

Cuenca is at 8,200 ft elevation.  When we were young, we skied at that altitute all Winter.  Now, it is more of a challenge to walk 5 miles of hilly city at that altitute.  Breath sometimes comes a bit too fast, or the head is a little too light after standing up quickly.

Cocaine to the rescue!  Well, actually a tea available on many street corners made from a tincture of cocaine.  It is a wonderful cure for all things that bother you from the altitude.

I found a street urchin selling cocain derivatives near the Parca Calderon — the central park of Cuenca.  Most of his wares were mosquito repellant, which isn’t much use at this altitude.  But he did have the tea I was looking for.

“5 Dollars, senor.”

“No. <shake my head> Too mucn. <walk away>”

“4 Dollars for you. Special today.”

“<shake head> No. Tres Dollars ($3)”

“Ok, OK. For you, Tres dollars”

And so, I have the altitude sickness cure I need for $3 (which is actually about the right price, FWIW)

Homeless in Cuenca, Ecuador!

We flew from San Francisco to Guyaquil, Ecuador today, to start our new 3-month adventure in Ecuador.  The American Airlines flights to Miami, and then to Ecuador were both on time and smooth, though completely booked.  Other than the lack of onboard food, it wasn’t much different from the hundred+ other similar flights we have taken in the past.

We had arranged for a driver from MIO Travel to meet us in Guayaquil and drive us to Cuenca.  We did that because we are traveling with a LOT more luggage than normal — trying to guess what we will need for 3 months, including lots of computer and camera equipment.  We didn’t want to worry about the internal TAME small airlines with that luggage.

To our pleasant surprise, Efrain was there to meet us.  He was our driver when we checked out Cuenca last Feb. We stopped for a quick dinner about an hour on the road (a small chicken-and-rice meal with more bone than chicken at a place I forgot to note or photograph), and then made it to Cuenca by midnight.

We pulled up to our Otorongo Apartments… only to find there was no apartment available for us!?  Seems I had originally told the manager last March that I thought we would arrive around Oct 23.  I updated that info in Sept, saying I would be here Oct 20. Though he responded to that email, he did not update his calendar, and someone was staying in our apartment.

HOMELESS IN CUENCA!

Well, we were that way for about 10 minutes anyway. Efrain got on the phone and found us a hotel about a block from city center.  Small little hole-in-the-wall that you can walk by without finding it — we did miss it several times the next day. Can you find our Hotel Ordonez in the following picture?

But it was warm and had a bed, so we took it and thanked Efrain profusely… 🙂 The room was so tiny we barely fit our luggage into it and still made it to the bed:

It served us well for a couple days until our apartment was ready though.  LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!

Civil War Reenactment at Duncans Mills

This weekend we attended a Civil War reenactment at Duncans Mills, about 2 hours North of San Francisco.  We have thought about going to one of these for a couple of decades, and finally really made the trip.

We had originally been promised access to the battlefield during the battle, as part of a small photographic group.  Unfortunately, at the last minute, the group said that would not be allowed, due to insurance liability issues.

We were still allowed to roam the encampment before the battle began.  We spent most of our time on the Confederate side, for not particular reason other than it was closer and we came across it first.

That battlefield places most of the canons well out of view of the main spectator area.  Of course that didn’t stop Evelyn, who found a small hole in the fence right near the canons and came to let me know.  As a result, I spent most of the battle trying to get good canon firing images.  They are surprisingly difficult to get, but I managed a few over the course of the day.

[Recommend] Southeast Asia Photo Tour Operator

When we went to Cambodia and Vietnam last October, we hired guides in each area we visited.  We hoped to have guides that could show us each area from a photographers point of view.  Though there were a couple locations that did not meet expectations, Hoi An in South Vietnam was one of the winners.  We had hired a general guide for the region of South Vietnam, but had heard of Etienne Bossot and his tours of Hoi An and also arranged for a day with him.

Etienne is a professional photographer that settled in the Hoi An area after he fell in love with it.  He speaks fluent English (so we could talk to him easily), and fluent Vietnamese (so he could talk to the locals easily).  He knew the area and the local people, and several times convinced a colorful local person to pose for us.  The photograph above is one of the images we got with his help.

Even since that trip, I have told anyone going to that portion of Vietnam to look him up.  Today I heard that he is starting some wider tours of Laos, North Vietnam,  and Central Vietnam (where Hoi An is, and where we met him).

His prices are very reasonable, and his expertise will make your tour something to remember.  I cannot recommend him too highly.

His website for these new tours is just coming online, so you might want to check back as you prepare for your own trip to the region.  For now though, be sure to check out his main page at:

http://www.etiennebossotphototours.com/

His morning sunrise tour in Hoi An is one of his tours that we took and loved.  You won’t find a better use of $29 anywhere in your camera bag!

http://www.hoianphototour.com/our-tours/morning-sunrise-tour

And, for the record, I am not receiving any compensation for this or any other recommendation on this blog.  I am raving about Etienne only because I felt he gave world-class value for the time and small cost involved.

Photo Gallery Updated

We have updated our main photo gallery.  The new format is much faster to download, and is now very friendly to smart phones and tablets, as well as computers.  Check it out:

 

MindStormPhoto

 

 

Golden Gate Bridge 75th Anniversary Celebration

For more photographs from our day on the boat and the fireworks on the bridge,

see our full gallery here.

Alex and Lorraine invited us and about 20 other friends to join them on their 40 foot sailing boat to cruise the SF Bay and be in prime position to view and photograph the 75th Anniversary celebration of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The weather was perfect. The clouds parted in the early afternoon, and we were greeted with unusually clear weather for sailing and fireworks viewing.  After a sail to the bridge and back in the afternoon, we had a BBQ on the boat.  In the evening, we went back out, and held the boat off of Crissy Field, where we could listen to the KFOG associated music from the park while watching the fireworks display.

Fireworks photography from a moving boat proved a challenge, but the afternoon was enjoyed by all.  Here are a few images from the adventure.

 

[Brag] N4C Best of Show

I hadn’t expected to post again so soon, but we were notified of the latest round of N4C photography winners.  I was pleasantly surprised that I picked up another 1st place and Best of Show at the Masters level of Pictorial competition:

Brainwashed

Each duck was shot separately with a syringe in its head, with colored water.  In a couple cases, I couldn’t get the color to quite match the duck, so I tweaked the syringe color a bit in Photoshop.  I then combined them into one image, and added the reflections and gradient.

 

PS: I see that the blog is truncating off the right of the image.  The original has a full blue duck on the right.  You can see the entire image, along with some other favorite eclectic studio images of mine at:

http://www.mindstormphoto.com/20-studio/10-eclectic/

 

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