Opening Bank Account

We now have an Ecuadorian saving account, which gives us a Debit Card and online ability to pay Ecuadorian vendors, as well as the ability for free ATM cash access.  There are a few bloggers that have detailed how to go about this in the past, so we had a pretty good idea of what to expect.  The best of these was on Gringos Abroad, which gives a detailed list of information needed. Read his post to see what documents to bring.

Turns out the process was a bit easier than we expected, based on others telling us their stories, and reading other blogs.

The only real change, which took us about half an hour to resolve, is that Omar is no longer in the picture. He now only works with accounts larger than $50,000.  When we finally reached him, Omar told us to go back to the first floor to open our account.

We went back to the initial lobby desk and said again that we wanted to open an account.  The agent said (in Spanish) that we needed to go upstairs…?  I said “No, Omar dijo primo pisa” (Omar told us first floor).  She looked at me oddly and said “Si, esta es planta baja. Piso primo esta ariba” (yes, this is the the ground floor. First floor is above). Wow!  I was in the wrong place, but i could actually understand her directions!  That is success in my book!

The rest is rather boring. We found an agent that would take our papers, He typed a whole lot of forms, printed out a large stack of papers, and told us to come back the following Monday to get our cards (the whole transaction being in Spanish).  The following week (today), we picked up the debit card and e-key card for online access. We are now offically bank customers.

Plein Air in Déleg

Two paintings completed by Evelyn on this trip

(post by Evelyn)

It has been 10 years since I painted with acrylic paint in plein air, and my experience with the paint was so frustrating that I switched to oil. This time the experience was different… I painted in the shade and used larger puddles of paint. Plus, Gary Myers, formerly an art teacher from Santa Fe, New Mexico, has such a calming effect and is able to bring out the creative side of everyone in the workshop.

The Déleg work shop is definitely worthwhile. Gary discussed adding a sketching outing, where the van would move the students around to different areas over the course of a day. His current plan is to rotate between Thursdays and Saturdays weekly, and his goal is to develop an art community who could paint together.

I was able to complete one painting before lunch and one after lunch, both shown above. Arie provided a delicious barbecue chicken for lunch, and was always attentive with paint, water, and drinks. Overall, it was a great workshop.

Antenna Farm and FotoClub #2

We went out to check the progress of a carpenter making my new desk today, in Chilcapamba. After we had approved the preliminary construction of the desk units, the driver asked if we wanted to see the antennae farm, where there was a panoramic view of the city.  We agreed, and started up a road that I would have sworn could only be traversed by a 4-wheel drive. After nearly half an hour of inching up an almost-road with a shear drop-off cliff the entire way, we finally stopped for a view.  There were at least 50 massive antenna mounted on top of this mountain, which must have included every company in town that has an interest in sending signals.

Evelyn and Lorell look out over the view, while an antenna farm looms behind

This photo of antennae is only a small segment of the hilltop.  I have a dozen such images, covering different sets of them, but this pretty much tells the story.  Note the houses nestled among the antenna. I presume these homeowners receive a rent for their property, and with that many antenaes, I expect they are able to live off that rental income.  Of course, that is an assumption based on North American property laws though, and I do not really know the situation of these people.  Someday I would like to learn Spanish well enough to talk to these people and learn their stories…

Panorama of Cuenca from antenna farm area

The taxi driver was right about the panoramic view of Cuenca.  The view was a spectacular view of the city.

Tonight was the second meeting of the Cuenca FotoClub that I attended, and the first time I submitted images for discussion. I still have to get used to the Ecuadorian way of keeping time…  The meeting was scheduled to begin at 7:30 at La Riera, a restaurant about 3 blocks from our condo.  I was tempted to arrive early, but held off and arrived at 7:28 — only to find I was the first one there.  A couple minutes later (right smack at 7:30), the president and vice-president arrived, and I gave them my photos from my USB stick, ordered a snack, then sat down.

People dribbled in over the next half hour, with 21 members there by 8:00, which is when the meeting was actually started.  That number continued to grow, and was up to 33 attendees by 8:30, well after the meeting started.  I am still on “California Time”, where all but one or two people arrived before the stated starting time of the photo club meeting in Berkeley.  I still have to ease up a bit before I can set my watch by “Ecuadorian Time”… 

The FotoClub meeting is entirely in rapid-fire Spanish, so I end up catching key words here and there and try to figure out context.  The meeting opened with the introduction of a professional photographer. I had seen a reference to Photoshop and Lightroom training coming up in the club FaceBook page, and thought this was the person giving those classes.  At the end of the introduction, I thought the president was asking how many people were interested in taking the class.  I was intrigued to see almost every hand went up.  I did not put up my hand, because (1) I could probably teach those classes (albeit in English) and (2) I don’t understand Spanish well enough to benefit from them.

It turned out that Gustavo Morejón was prepared to make a presentation on his scientific photography. He proceeded with an interesting talk.  He was clearly a good speaker, though I wish I understood more of what he was saying.  At one point, he was talking about the difficulty of identifying critters he had photographed, and I understood an almost universal phrase — “Thank God for Google!”  Yep, I guess that feeling is as true in Ecuador as it is in California. 

Gustav’s presentation was informative and entertaining at the same time

After Gustav’s presentation, the meeting returned to the standard commenting on photographs submitted by members.  Unfortunately, I was having mental fatigue part way through this section. It was the end of a long day, and I had been concentrating for well over an hour trying to understand rapid-fire Spanish, and I was understanding less and less of what was said.  Several photographs elicited laughter, but I was unable to tell what the source of the mirth was, since the photographs themselves were not obviously funny in any way I could see.

By the time my images were presented, I was sufficiently fatigued that I did not really understand what was being said.  I did hear a couple of gasps, and a couple of “wow!” comments, which sounded encouraging, but in the end neither of my photos was even chosen for the initial round of voting, let alone selected as winners.

After the meeting, I went up to the president (one of three members that speaks fluent English), and admitted that I did not really understand the discussion on my images. I had noted that there was almost no Photoshop used on any of the other photos I had seen in two photo club meetings. He said that the club had decided a couple years ago that Photoshop was to be minimal and never obvious. However, he then said that the club changed its mind last November and had a ‘challenge’ where Photoshop had to be a major contributor to the image.  The club is not really accustomed to the heavy use of Photoshop, and tends not to respond that well to it at this point.

He then stated that he had only submitted one image tonight (he did not win, so I am not sure which was his), and that my images convinced him to start submitting at least one ‘controversial’ image each session in the future.  It will be interesting to see what he shows in future weeks…

One interesting side note.  When I approached him, I did not say which photos were mine, but he immediately identified them.  As I rather expected, my style is sufficiently different from the rest of the club that it stands out pretty quickly.

Volcano Erupts

 

Volcano erupts (image courtesy El Mercurio newsaper)

Truck in our parking lot with fine layer of volcanic ash

We lived in Beaverton, Oregon in 1980 when Mt St. Helens erupted.  We could see the eruption from our house, and ash covered the town several times over the following weeks.  Today we had a small visitation that brought back those memories.  A volcano erupted about 210 km North of us.  We only got a very slight dusting, and it was easy to not even notice what was going on, other than an odd murkiness in the air and slippery sidewalks that left a slight trail when walked on.

This morning we read what had really happened.  Following is a snippet from Gringo Tree, a local English language email newsletter oriented towards expats here in Cuenca:

Cuenca Gets Volcanic Ashfall

For only the second time in memory, Cuenca has been dusted with volcanic ash. It came early Sunday morning from the eruption of the Tungurahua volcano, 210 kilometers to the north. The previous ashfall came during an erpution of the Sangay volcano almost 60 years ago. According to meteorologists, the ash from Tungurahua reached Cuenca due to a variation in the normal pattern of high-altitude winds.

The overnight ashfall was enough to force temporary closure of the Cuenca airport and bring out battalions of city street sweepers; the city opted for brooms, concerned that washing away the ash with water could clog city sewers. Cuenca got off easy: In towns and cities near the volcano, such as Ambato and Baños, ash deposits were up to four inches deep.

Saturday’s explosions at Tungurahua sent an ash plume almost six miles into the atmosphere and aviation authorities said the cloud could shut down air travel for the entire  country if it persists, and if winds shift to the west.

Although health officials said the Cuenca ashfall did not pose serious health threats, they advised people with respiratory problems to remain indoors and wear masks when they go outside.

Vilcabamba

 

We took the bus to Loja, and then a taxi to Vilcabamba for a few days this past week.  We have heard quite a lot about the area and decided we wanted to check it out. As is common on inter-city busses in Ecuador, the driver put a DVD on for entertainment.  Usually it is a movie with the audio either off or too low to hear (and in Spanish).  This time we saw something entirely different though. We got an hour of bull trimming — a variant on bull fighting, which has the audience in the ring.  The DVD mostly centered on the disasters where the bull won the exchange.  It was like watching a car wreck — disturbing, but you can’t seem to turn away…

We went on the trip with Ann and William, a couple we met a year ago on our first extended stay in Cuenca.  They still live back in the States and love to wander (hence the name of their blog). They liked Cuenca enough to come back for another month.  You can kinda get a feel for their personalities by seeing them above, walking behind Evelyn.  

We hired a René as a driver and guide to take us around the area for one day.

First stop was a small boutique coffee producer.

Of course everyone had to buy some freshly ground coffee for home.

As we walked in the fields, we found these oxen, which Evelyn had to photograph. Reminded me of the time she spooked some yaks in Tibet…

René wanted to show us a waterfall… with a drop of about 2 feet…?

Orchards of coffee, limes, and bananas abounded. The power lines had strange furry plants growing on them too?

Next stop was a small sugar cane processing business.

The kids loved to eat the sugar straight from the vats, and of course they all loved to play with Evelyn.

Our Life in a Box

Our container was loaded today in Berkeley, and will now work its way towards our new home in Cuenca.  It is both a relief, and a bit humbling to see everything we own fit in little more than half a 20 foot shipping container…

Either way though, our life in Ecuador is starting to more fully take shape.  Our Berkeley home is being put back on the market in a couple weeks too.  The drawing for the advertisements just arrived:

 

Earthquake!

I have lived in earthquake zones in California for most of my life. I have felt many quakes in that time, including the Loma Prieta quake of 1989 that did major damage in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Tonight, sitting in my office in Cuenca, Ecuador, I felt the chair start to rock.  I paused the Photoshop video I was watching, and then the computer monitor started rocking.  I glanced over and saw the cactus in the corner of the office swaying.

We were having an earthquake here in Cuenca!  I had traveled  3953 miles and still wasn’t free of these little rock ‘n roll fun rides…

When in California, I could check a USGS website and see the details of the quake within 3 or 4 minutes of the event.  I did a Google search for recent quakes in Ecuador, and then checked the site.  Nada…?  20 minutes later it showed up.  Things always move a little slower down here…

The quake was magnitude 5.5, occurring 19.6 km (12 miles) below the surface, occurring 24 km (15 miles) SW of Zorritos, Peru — just over the border with Ecuador.

No damage, but it made me wonder for a bit if I had really left California at all…

Update!

I went out to run some errands Monday morning and found our street blocked off.  Next door there were workmen putting up a scaffold.  Looking up, I realized that a decorative part of the roof had collapsed on our neighbor’s house.  It almost certainly was a result of the quake Sunday morning.  The photo at the top of this post shows a neighbor on her balcony as she looks over at the workmen.  Behind the upper man, you can see the piece of the roof that broke off.

Here is a wider view from the street. The taller building in the background (with our DirecTV dish on the roof) is our building. You can just see the broken roof piece sitting on the house between us.

 

Here is a view from our living room window. You can just make out the broken decorative piece, indicated by the red arrow.

Picky, picky, picky

 

We went to the Registro Civil to day to pick up our cedulas.  We were told that it would take “maybe an hour or so.”  Other gringos had told us to allocate all day.  They were closer to the truth…

Bureaucrats the world round appear more interested in creating and making jobs rather than serving people in any way even remotely related to efficiency.  The circus to get us this far has shown numerous examples of this, but today pushed far enough that I would have likely gone ballistic just a few years ago. Fortunately, I have become more patient in recent years, and am finally getting the hang of this “retired thing,” so mostly took it in stride.

One small example is that we had to pay the local cashier $22.85, then $2.60, then $5.00.  Each was a different trip to stand in the same cashier line and pay.  Each time it held up any progress in the office while the officer that sent me to pay just waited for me to return.  No handling of other waiting people.  No thought of having me pay it all at once up front, even though the total cost was known before I ever walked in the door.

After waiting hours for a notary to handle documents for us, an official told Evelyn she could not get a cedula and had to start over.  WHAT???

Our names are on lots and lots of forms.  On one of the forms, her husband is listed as ‘Burt Johnson.’  Looked fine to me (and her and our lawyer and the notary…).  Nope.  All the other forms had my middle name included.  This form did not, and was therefore wrong, and her paperwork could not be processed.  How do we get this fixed?  It was a mistake by the Ministry and therefore can only be fixed in the capital of Quito — about an 8 hour drive from Cuenca.

Yep. The Ministry made the error, so they must fix it.  No concept of simply entering the missing middle name in the computer here. Gotta make another job by doing it there.  Of course, this is why we hired a lawyer.  Though we could technically do this ourselves, it is now his job to fix the problem.  Since we are paying a fixed fee for the entire cedula process, it only means that Evelyn must come back and do this all again on another day.

Meanwhile, I waited to be called up to the window to pick up my cedula.  In the States, that would take about 5 minutes to print out the card.  After an hour, two men stood by me and rattled off some fast Spanish I did not understand. I replied “no entiendo” (“I don’t understand”) and they called over another man who said “show him your hands.”  Huh?  I held up my hands, and the first man used an ultraviolet flashlight to examine my fingertips closely.  After a couple minutes, they all walked away and said “es bueno” (“it is good”).

Another hour goes by and I am finally called up to the window, only to be told “necesita otra fotografia” (“another photograph is necessary”).  hmmm…  Did I smile too much (not allowed)?  Oh well, I went back to the photo booth…..

Nope. It was “photographs” of my fingers they wanted again.  They cleaned off the glass, put some grease on my fingers, and then practically stood on my hand while the computer scanned them.  Apparently pleased with the results, they then did the same with the other hand and then with the thumbs.  I was then told to return to the waiting room.

While there this time, I sat next to a gringo who told me his story of woe.  He started the process last February and is just now getting his cedula — more than 11 months after starting.  I won’t go into his full tale here, as it would make this post into a full book.  Suffice it to say I suddenly felt pretty good about our own process…

20 minutes later we were both called up to the window again, this time to pick up our official cedula cards.  I looked at the fingerprint on it:

Yep. Just one black blob. Absolutely no whorls visible at all.  By squashing my fingers to the glass, they obliterated all traces of usefulness.  But hey, they were able to spend three or four times the rational amount of time, thus cutting the flow of people and thereby requiring more staff to handle the same work.  Sounds like success to me… if I were a professional bureaucrat anyway…

 

Update

Evelyn went back Monday morning, after our attorney sat in line for her to get a processing number. After the first official confirmed that Burt’s middle name was now in the Quito computer, Evelyn got in line to pay her $5 processing fee, then another line to get her photo and fingerprinting. The second official typed all the same information on the forms onto his computer.  He questioned input from the first official, which started an extended conversation.  The two officials finally agreed with each other, and told Evelyn to pick up her cédula “in 15 minutes” at the next counter.

After 45 minutes, Evelyn approached the counter, and they insisted “un momento.”  After another 45 minutes, Evelyn approaches and asks again, and is again told to wait. When her name is finally called, she is told to return to the first counter for another photo and set of fingerprints (same experience Burt had the prior week). Apparently there was a third official checking the work of the second official (who had been checking the work of the first official), and they felt that an error had been made.

Three hours later, after what was supposed to be 15 minutes, Evelyn got her cédula.

Yay! We are now both legal!

And a lot of bureaucrats will keep their jobs, checking on the checker, ad nauseum, and making multiple mistakes because of multiple re-entry of all the information.

FotoClub Cuenca

I heard about the FotoClub Cuenca a few months ago, but between my crutches and the December holidays, tonight was the first time I was able to attend.  I knew almost nothing about the group other than they are the Camera Club for Cuenca, and therefore my best chance of getting back into a photography circle to improve the quality of my work.

I showed up at 7:30, which was the announced time.  There were only three other people there at the time — Julie (a gringo friend visiting Cuenca that I had convinced to join me), the president of the club, and Pablo (a member).  Everyone spoke English, so I was heartened, though knew that would be short-lived.  The president told me that everyone always come late, because after all, this is Ecuador…  Sure enough, by 7:40 the room had filled up with roughly 30 members.

Pablo came over and sat near Julie and me, and every so often we asked him to explain what was going on, since the Spanish was rapid-fire and often over our heads.  He was a life saver, and helped keep the night a positive experience.

Club meetings are on the first and third Wednesday of each month, at La Riera restaurant (a change in location for 2014) at 7:30. The format of the meeting is that each member can bring in two images on a USB stick, which is given to the president for copying onto the club computer at the beginning.  Any subject is allowed, unless there is a “topic challenge” for that week.  

They then present each photograph in sequence, allowing anyone in the club to comment on it.  There were three or four people that mostly dominated the discussion, in particular filling in when nobody else would speak up.  By the end of the night, most members had said something on some photo though.  I never spoke up because of my limited Spanish.  However, several times I was trying to formulate how to say a thought I had, only to hear another member say it in fluent Spanish.  I was happy to have both had the same thought, and to have been able to understand the speaker!  Overall, I figure I understood maybe 10% of the comments that were made during the night.

After all photographs have been commented on, they are shown in groups of three for a “pre-vote” to select the better ones.  That set is then shown one at a time, and everyone can raise their hands as many times as they want for all the images they like.  The hands are counted and the name of the photo is changed to reflect the count.  When done, the top three vote-receivers get to announce who the photographer was and a short statement about the image.  Those three images will then be published on the club’s web site.

The group here is much younger than we had at the Berkeley Camera Club back in California, where most of the members were retired.  FotoClub is mostly composed of 20-something members.  It is clear in looking at the photos that they do not have quite the same range of experience of some of the senior members in Berkeley.  

In the next few meetings I will start submitting my own images.  I am particularly interested to discover if my style of images meet with local approval. Watch This Space to hear how I do…

Frient

It is sometimes frustrating when I speak “perfect Spanish” and the other person looks at me like I’ve grown an extra head.  I know I said it right… didn’t I?

Well, today I had a little lesson on what it probably sounds like to the native speaker I am trying to communicate with.

During parts of my regular physical therapy sessions, I am left alone while there is a heating pad and electro-shock electrodes doing their thing to my ankle.  I often listen to my Pimsleur Spanish lessons while lying there.  Since the walls don’t go all the way to the ceiling, they can hear me mumbling Spanish (or not, when stuck).  

The therapist assistant speaks almost no English at all, and is amused that I am working so hard to learn Spanish. After all, it seems like such an easy language to her? I asked if she had English in school, and yes, several years but she didn’t do very well at it.  Somehow the irony of those two statements didn’t sink in.  Ahhh, to be so young and naive again.

She then started giving me vocabulary words from her very limited memory of English, to see if I knew the Spanish.  I did pretty good for awhile:

  • “city”  — “ciudad”
  • “morning” — “manana”
  • “night” — “noche”
  • … and on like this for maybe 5 minutes …
  • “frient” — huh??

I sat up (while she was still massaging my foot) and asked “frient?”  She replied, “si, frient!” After saying that, and my having no idea what she meant, she pointed to me and then herself and repeated “frient!”

Ohhhh… “Friend” I declared. “d,” no “t”.  “Si, frient!”

I never did get a proper “friend”, but I gave the expected reply of “amigo” once I knew what was intended.

Funny how one little letter mispronounced can make a word nearly impossible to understand.  Now I think I have a better idea of why my “perfect Spanish” is so often met with befuddled stares…

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