India 15 – Enroute to Hubli

Hubli, India - ox carts

Our next stop was Hubli Airport, which was the end of our India trip. Along the way, we passed through many villages. Many appeared to be a step backward in time, with very few motorized vehicles and no tourists. People are living much like they did hundreds of years earlier.

The architecture of the buildings we passed along the way were purely functional, with the block apartment forms being rather depressing, after seeing the creative forms of Hindu temple architecture elsewhere in the country.

Ox carts were even more common here than in other parts of India, with the ox horns often dyed blue or decorated (center).

Hubli, India - decorated vehicles

In fact, all forms of transportation were decorated.  Be it tuk-tuks (upper row) or tractors, (center, and lower), or horses (bottom-center), people festooned their vehicles with flowers and other decorations to add color to their life.

Hubli, India - people

As always, we love photographing the people wherever we go. Here are a few parting shots of the people at the Badami market enroute to Hubli. India is now behind us.  Next stop, Dubai, UAE.

India 14 – Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami

Badami, India - temples

We then traveled to Karnataka, a state located to the north of Kerala, to see the major archaeological sites at Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami, where the ancient cave temples are located.

The first stop was Aihole, built between 4th – 12th century, a historic site of ancient Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist monuments. It has great cultural significance as the cradle of Hindu temple architecture, with more than 125 temples.

The second stop was Pattadakal, which was designated as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1987.The village lies on the banks of the Malaprabha River in Bagalkot district of North Karnataka region. The town displays both Dravidian (Southern) and the Nagara (Northern, Indo-Aryan) styles of temple architecture.  What struck us most was how well preserved the sculptures were, even with the thousands of visitors and nothing preventing people from touching the stone with their greasy hands. The stories that were carved into the stone of the many Hindu gods were at times hilarious, and some appeared to be ancient soap operas.

Badami, India - large carvings

The final stop was Badami, the home of the famous cave temples of India, which consisted of four caves, which were each carved from a single piece of granite.  The sculptures became more ornate and elaborate as we progressed from cave to cave, each created a couple centuries after the earlier one.  The above images are all roughly life-size or larger, and depict various Hindu gods in various mythical stories.

The amazing part was just looking at the caves in their entirety. They are carved out of granite stone.  The artists had to look at this mountain side, envision a complete three-dimensional scene, and then start carving from front-to-back, and from top-to-bottom.  The technology to dig the cave was impressive enough, with no power tools, but adding the artistic element made it truly mind-boggling.

Badami, India - small carvings

Among the larger life-size images were also hundreds of smaller bas-relief carvings of gods, dwarves, animals in still more mythical stories. These were seen at every turn.

Badami, India - people

Of course, we always value the interactions with the people whenever we travel.  There was a small group of school children who quickly latched onto us as foreigners, and requested to have their photo taken in one cave (lower-right).  There were very few monkeys in this area, though one consented to have his portrait take (upper left).  Our guide offered to take a photo of the three of us (Pauline, me, Evelyn left-to-right in center image).

Badami, India - market

After exploring the caves and temples, we drove to the local village for Pauline to purchase more sarees, and where we observed how everyday life continues. Our driver informed us that this saree shop was the best.

Badami, India - transportation

It was also fascinating to see the various forms of transportation in town. From tractors (upper-left) to motorcycles (upper-right) to families sharing a single bike (center-left) to tuk-tuks overflowing with an extended family (center) to ox carts (lower left) to simply walking (lower-right), people were always on the move. Gasoline is quite expensive relative to wages, so cars were rare.

India 13 – Munroe Island

Munroe Island, India - waterway

We took several little side trips during our three weeks of traveling through Southern India.  One was a visit to Munroe island, located in the Kollam district in rural Kerala, India, and well off the beaten path. We had expected to drive to the island and then walk around.  Instead, we were deposited on the side of the road, where a small wooden boat with stand up paddler was waiting for us.  We then proceeded to tour the small canals of the island.

Perhaps the most memorable part of the visit was the very low bridges under which we passed.  There were a few that we could simply duck to pass under, and one bridge even had bats clung to the bottom.  Many others, though, required us to lie down flat in the bottom of the boat, with the bridge still brushing our backs when passing under.

Munroe Island, India - making rope

As we passed one small home, we saw a group of women spinning fiber with what looked like bicycle wheels on a handle, rolling back and forth on a wheeled platform. The sisal making machine looked like a hand-made twisting mechanism.  The boat driver let us off the boat, and told us that the Indian people are very resourceful. Every part of the coconut is used, including the short fibers from the husks of the coconuts (called coir). We discovered that this family was spinning the fibers to make natural sisal rope.

We realized that we have used rope made from natural fibers for years, but never given much thought to how it was made.  They took packages of strands of natural fibers, wound it into long strings approximately 1/4″ thick, then twisted the strings together to create a rope. The final product (bottom-right) can then be used for rope, rugs, and other products.

Munroe Island, India - people and temples

During our ride, we came across a man who was diving for clams (top-left). He swam over and gave us three of his clams as a gift, then swam away, smiling but never uttering a word. At another stop, a man sold us a coconut milk drink, a common thirst quenching drink of the region (lower-left).  As always, we also found a local temple, complete with colorful sculptures (lower row). This is another sample of village life in India.

India 12 – Alleppey Backwaters

houseboat, India - houseboats

We spent one day relaxing on a houseboat on the backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala, India.  This area is also known as the “Venice of the East.”  Our houseboat reminded me of a Hobbit Home, whereas Evelyn thought we were on an armadillo fleet floating on the brackish canals. The original houseboats were primarily deployed for transporting spices, rice and other cargo. Now, 1500 boats a day carry tourists along the waterways, and has become quite a tourist draw.

Our boat was built with elongated wooden planks (no nails), with the thatched roof covering, framed with bamboo over a wooden hull. When moving, it provided a slight breeze, making the otherwise hot air very pleasant.  The chef on board stuffed us with gourmet meals, while we relaxed and watched the world go by like royalty.  In fact, the three of us had our own staff of three in our boathouse… one staff member for every guest. We even bought a kilo of large tiger prawns for the chef to custom grill just for us for dinner, while stocking the boat.

houseboat, India - fishing

In the late afternoon, we went on a motorless canoe tour of some of the smaller waterways of the backwater area.  As we passed through the village, we found that most homes had someone out front with a simple bamboo pole stuck in the water, catching dinner for their family.

houseboat, India - people

The people living along the canals provided endless fascination, with an occasional monkey (middle-left) to break up the scene.  Upper-left shows Pauline (Evelyn’s sister) taking in the day-to-day life of the villages.

houseboat, India - rain

Just as we were about to embark on our canoe tour, the skies opened and the rain started falling in earnest.  Umbrellas came out for most people on the water, but by the time we had loaded the canoe, the rain had stopped, leaving the air pleasantly clean and cool for our journey.

houseboat, India - gods

After we finished our houseboat stay, we headed to our next destination.  Enroute, we stopped at a local temple (top-left), and came across six men going from home to home with a god’s statue in a litter (middle-left), where each home would pour grain in a ritual to invite the gods into their homes (lower-left and center). Along the way, we also stopped at a bridge to check out the fishing boats parked at the local marina.

We also came across a school that was in recess, and several boys rushed to the gate to gawk at the foreigners (upper-right) then watched a fisherman repairing his nets (middle-right). We encountered plenty of photographic opportunities everywhere in India.

India 11 – Munnar

Munnar, India - dancer make up

While in Munnar, we watched a classical Indian Kathakali dance drama and traditional Kalaripayattu martial arts at the Punarjeeva Cultural Center.  By arriving a couple hours early, they allowed us behind-the-scenes access to watch and capture actors dressing and putting on their makeup. The male lead is wearing 80 pounds of clothes, and requires 3 hours to put on his makeup.  He does this every day, for a performance that only lasts about 30 minutes, and then removes all the makeup using coconut oil in less than 15 minutes.

Munnar, India - dance

The dance itself involved only two characters, and there are no words spoken.  One was a god, while the other (also played by a man) was a jealous wife.  In the myth being portrayed, this wife was unhappy because she was not the #1 wife, and thus her son would not inherit the throne.  We see her fangs come out, which symbolize her jealousy.  In this version of the myth, the wife is then killed (lower-right), though the version we had been told about days early ended with the wife’s banishment, rather than death.

Munnar, India - martial arts

After the dance, two men gave a martial arts demonstration in a pit between the dance stage and the audience.  It was dark enough down in the pit that we could not really see very well, and it was only in processing the images that we even realized the high jumps used during the simulated fights (center).

Munnar, India - temple

Temples lined the roads. Every village had its own Hindu temple, and many times, one served a small village of only a few families.

India 10 – Madurai

Madurai, India - invite godWe started our exploration of Madurai with a walking tour that started at 6AM.  This gave us a chance to see the old town wake up, since dawn was at 6:30.  Every home had the woman of the house creating an elaborate design using a rice powder, using two fingers and thumb to pick up a large pinch, then disbursing it in a steady, controlled stream.  These patterns (upper-right and entire lower row) were meant to welcome the gods into their home, with the various designs being passed on through the generations.

We noticed that all the cows seemed to be walking with a purpose.  A little after sunrise we came across a man (upper-center) milking them as they arrived.  They knew where and when to go, with no need for any human guidance.

Since we were here on International Women’s day, one woman came out, and placed forehead decorations and a string of jasmine flowers on both Evelyn and Pauline (center).

The wholesale market is open 24/7, so there are always people negotiating for product day and night.
Madurai, India - waking up

As the town woke up, other shopkeepers and street food vendors laid out their wares and got ready for the day’s business.

Madurai, India - temple

The Hindu temples in this part of the country are different from any we have seen before. They are heavily adorned with colorful statues of various gods, displayed in a multitude of mythical situations.  Center image shows one of the small temples that we passed in Southern India, while the right column shows some of the details of a few of its statues.

Unfortunately, the most impressive temple of them all, called Meenakshi, has no images.  It has five massive towers, each of which has more than 1100 colorful statues.  There was a bomb threat to the site, so security no longer allows anyone to carry a camera or cell phone, leaving it impossible for us to show the immensity and complexity of the temple. Inside, Evelyn and Pauline were blessed by the temple elephant, which took their 20 rupees, and used its trunk to make the blessing on top of their heads.

Madurai, India - clay

On the village tour from the Cardamon Homestay,  Evelyn and Pauline found a potter making a vase on a potter’s wheel run entirely by hand. (see video at the end to get a feel of how it works). The 84-year old potter seen here is the last one in this village, since his children chose not to carry on the craft.

They also visited a goat herder’s village, and saw a site where goats were sacrificed to bring fertility, plus original homes that were more than 300 years old.

Madurai, India - kids

Kids are always fun to watch, and Southern India was no different. A pleasant surprise is that the kids in this area asked for ball point pens instead of money. It seemed that a group would form around us everywhere we went, as foreigners were not a common site in these locations.  Pauline (Evelyn’s sister) is seen in center image, posing with one such gang.

Madurai, India - working

People here worked hard at whatever they were doing, but were always welcoming to both us and our cameras. Several people were washing clothes, accomplished by beating the clothes on rocks or concrete (bottom left).  The top image showed a saree maker on her loom, where Pauline bought several. We also came across a funeral that was continuing for two days (bottom center), with drums and songs honoring the dead.

 

In two minutes, see how this potter in a small village of India makes clay pots entirely by hand, including spinning his wheel by hand.

India 9 – Cochin

Cochin / Kochi, India - nets

After the excitement of Holi and Hola Mohalla, we embarked on a couple weeks of touring Southern India in a more sedate manner.  Pauline (Evelyn’s sister) joined us for this portion of India.

Our first stop was Kochi (also known as Cochin).  Our hotel was a couple blocks from the beach, so we walked down to see the Chinese fishing nets(an ancient cantilevered fishing technique) at sundown, while the nets were idle.

Cochin / Kochi, India - fishing

We also watched the nets during the day, when they were being worked at high tide. The huge nets are lowered into the water, and then raised a few minutes later.  The net is fixed to a pole on the shore. While fishing, the entire net is lowered by a primitive fulcrum mechanism using long bamboo poles. By the same mechanism the pole is lifted along with the catch. As seen in the lower image, it takes a crew of five strong men to handle the nets.

Cochin / Kochi, India - coconut rubber pinneapple

A first stop was for fresh coconut milk, which we later found was a mainstay drink for the area, as we had it many times over the next couple weeks.

We were given a tour of the area by Thomas (lower-center), our host along with his wife Ruby, at their homestay in Thodupuzha, just outside of Cochin.

We then went onto a rubber tree plantation (left-center, middle, left-bottom) and learned how the rubber is harvested from the tree. Unfortunately, the rubber processing plant was not in operation that day due to a labor strike, so were not able to see the processing of the rubber sap. Across the road from the rubber trees was a pineapple plantation. We learned that the rubber trees must be cut down and replanted every few years, and that pineapples are planted alongside the rubber trees until the latter forms a canopy.

As we drove by field after field of tea toward Madurai, we came across one being harvested, and stopped for a closer look (right-middle and right-bottom). We saw that the harvesting is done by hand using a special basket with a scissor-like edge allowing the workers to just off just the top, most tender leaves.

Cochin / Kochi, India - elephant nutmeg

Evelyn and Pauline both wanted to see elephants, so we took a side trip to Elephant Junction, a wildlife sanctuary at Periyar, and fed one elephant.

Cochin / Kochi, India - monkeys

Monkeys were everywhere, and here is a small sample of some of the photos we took of them.

Cochin / Kochi, India - blurred cruise ship

When I was photographing the fishing nets that evening, a cruise ship lifted anchor and began sailing out to see.  I was using a long exposure for the image, and rather liked the surprise result…

In this one minute clip, you can see tea leaves being harvested, and Evelyn and Pauling feeding an Asian elephant.

India 8 – Hola Mohalla

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - turbans blue

A few days after the Holi Festival, the Sikh hold a three-day celebration of Hola Mohalla. There was very little throwing of powdered paint here.  Instead, the big event was a show of horsemanship, martial arts, archery, and military skills.

The Sikh are easily identified as all men must wear a turban. Many of the turbans were a bright blue, as seen above. We were told that a blue turban signifies a temple worker. There were a couple of Sikhs that had huge turbans (center image).  This Sikh had a cadre of other Sikhs following him, though I was not able to learn if the size of the turban actually has any significance other than for show.

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - turbans other

Turbans did come in a variety of colors. Our guide could not tell me if there was any significance to their colors beyond personal choice. Every so often, we met one that was overtly pro-American, such as the guy lower-right with the “4 USA” shirt.

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - transport

People arrived by motorcycle, in the back of trucks, tuk tuks, buses, on tractors, and on foot.  Each evening one small tractor would run down each road slowly spewing out a choking gas (center) that was intended to destroy the mosquitos in the evening. I believe it was Malathion, but nobody I spoke to knew for sure.

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - feeding the people

The Sikh tradition is one of sharing, and various groups set up free kitchens in the area for the three days of celebration, serving more than 10 million free meals.  The man lower-right is repeating a chant over and over all day long, saying in Punjabi “free meals.” The kitchens were very willing to allow me to photograph their progress, and I had to politely refuse free meals at every stop (American stomachs don’t do well with Indian food bacteria…).

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - horses

The highlight of the celebrations is a show of horsemanship skill.  Horses are galloped at full speed mere inches from the audience — the latter crowding in to see the horses come, then jumping back seconds before being trampled.  In order to get these images, I had to also flow with the crowd, and had to duck several times to avoid being hit by the spear the riders were carrying.  The spears were used to poke at a pile of grass tufts in front of the judging panel, to pick up and show off.  Many of the horsemen came around empty and tried again, while a few managed to have more than one tuft of their spear.  One old gent, who looked too ancient to ride, was galloping at full speed, proudly showing off the five tufts on this spear — far more than anyone else.

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - horses standing

As if riding and spearing the tufts were not enough challenge, several riders came through galloping while standing on the backs of two horses.  All the time, trying to wind through the organically flowing path through the crowd that opened at the last second to let them pass.

Punjab, India, Hola Mohalla 2018 - misc

Here are a few final images from the day.  The temple (upper-left) is lit up and looks like it belongs in Disneyland.  Before the horses started their hour-long run, a man warmed up the crowd on a motorcycle (upper-right).  After the horse run was complete, many of the horsemen waited around for photographers, some rearing their horses for display (center).

The photographs just can’t do justice to the speed and closeness of the horses to the crowd.  Watch this one minute clip to get more of a gut feeling for the field… though until you are there in person, you won’t really know what it is like!

India 7 – Kaputhli Artist Colony

Kapuleti, India - puppet2

We visited an artist community in Delhi called Kaputhli.  This is a group of some 300 families that was forcibly moved as a group from their prior homes, into temporary housing.  They were promised “new and better” homes within two years.  I’m sure you can guess the punchline — that was 5 years ago, and groundbreaking has not yet begun where they were promised to be placed.

Our first stop was at the home of a puppeteer, who put on a short show for us. We then had various members of the family sit in the stage with the puppets, resulting in the above images.

Kapuleti, India - life

As we wandered the area, we found ourselves the center of attention, particularly with the kids. Every kid wanted their photo taken, and many wanted selfies taken with the tourists. Bottom-left image shows dozens of kids sitting on a rail, just to watch us.  Top-middle image shows the size of their current homes.  That one room you see in this photograph is the entire home, often occupied by three generations.

Kapuleti, India - fire breathers

Oliver (our guide) arranged for some fire breathers to perform from an adjoining rooftop. This location offered a unique photographic opportunity, a blending of creative energy in the  environment of the slums.

Here is a short clip from Kaputhli.  It opens with a portion of a puppet show, then a few seconds from some kids jamming in their one-room home, and finishes with fire breathers.

India 6 – Holi Festival at Nandgaon

Nandgaon, India Holi - dance

This is the third of three blog posts describing our experience at Holi Festival 2018.  For our third day, we moved from Barsana to Nandgaon.  Though many aspects of the festival are the same here, there were some very important differences — the biggest being the behavior of the crowds and lots of water mixed with the powder.

In Barsana, it was a mob mentality, with extreme pushing and shoving, and a strong every man for himself approach.  The same crowds existed in Nandgaon, but here they walked into the temple orderly, waiting their turn and moving civilly. It was a much more pleasant experience all the way around.

Once in the temple area though, the scene was again dominated by music and dancing.  The words were different, since this temple was not dedicated to Rahde, but the beat and the frenetic dancing was the same.

Nandgaon, India Holi - paint

Again, paint was thrown by everyone at everyone.  You were not part of the party if you were not covered in paint, mostly red but with some yellow thrown in for good measure.

Nandgaon, India Holi - kids

The festival here included lots of water too, and when mixed with powder, it was the makings for a slippery mess.  The kids took particular joy in this aspect, and squirt guns and water cannons were manned by anyone under puberty.

nandgeon-4scenes

Here a few selected images we were able to capture of the surrounding village, outside of the thrown paint zones.

Nandgaon, India Holi - beating men

The game of the men being beaten by women moved from Barsana to Nandgaon, so we got to see them again.  This time, we went early to a nearby rooftop to secure prime viewing space. When the participants gathered below us, they started with random men and women dancing together (upper-left), then separated into a dozen circles of women around one or more men under shields (upper-right).  The bashing then began (middle-right and lower-left) for a full hour, with the women never letting up — though a you could see many of the women were exhausted and the blows did not have as much strength towards the end.

As the sun set (lower-right), new men gradually failed to enter the circles, and the whole party just kind of slowly dissipated.  That ended the Holi Festival experience for us in this region.  Lots more to come!

Watch 90 seconds of musical pandemonium as the revelers go into frenetic dancing.

Here is another short 70 second clip showing women beating men, this time from our front-row vista on a neighboring rooftop.

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