Cyprus 4 – Art, Donkeys, and Ruins

Cyprus - Nicosia, Greek North, Art Murals, Street

We have now transitioned from the Turkish-occupied North Cyprus to the “Republic of Cyprus,” often referred to as “the Greek side.”  I’ll let you read the linked Wikipedia article if you want to know why.  Our first shock was that all the signs were suddenly unreadable, in a non-Roman alphabet script — though usually followed by plain English translations (upper left with our Cyprus host and I walking under a “pelican crossing” warning sign).

Murals are not as common in Cyprus as they are in Latin America (Ecuador and Colombia murals were shown earlier), though there was one street in Nicosia that had some interesting street art (top row plus center). Later on our travels around Limassol, we came across a small wine museum (bottom row), and did free “testing”(their term for “tasting”) of some local wines.

Cyprus - Donkeys Golden Donkey Farm

Donkeys are a big thing in Cyprus.  Wild in the North, and domesticated in the South. Cody (a friend from Cuenca now working in South Cyprus) joined us for a drive onto the Karpaz Peninsula. She warned us that wild donkeys would walk down the center of the road, then turn sideways to block any oncoming car, waiting for a car window to roll down, so they could stick their nose in for food.  Sure enough, exactly as she had described, a donkey did just that (upper images).

In the South, donkeys are still domesticated, so we made our way to the Golden Donkey Farm, to see “more than 200 donkeys” and taste some of the products made from donkey milk.  The way was well signed, with a full sized golden donkey statue at every major turn (top middle right), until we arrived.  They had a couple of small museums with wax figures in poses of typical historic daily life (lower middle row), and plenty of curious donkeys (lower row).  The farm was rather a disappointment though, and not really worth the drive…

Cyprus - Leventis Gallery art

In Nicosia, we also visited the Leventis Art Gallery, which just opened in 2014.  Created entirely from the private collection of A.G. Leventis, it had an impressive collection of more than 800 pieces of Cypriot art, both modern and classic, as well as paintings by European masters.

Cyprus - Kolossi Castle

Our drive south took us to the Kolossi Castle, in the city of Kolossi on the Southern coast of Cyprus. This castle dates back to 1210, and was originally a center of production of sugar, using the local sugarcane. A small, but interesting, castle, it was currently displaying modern art banners (upper row).

Cyprus - ruin Kourion

Our last stop on this segment was the Kourion ruins. This site has origins that date back more than 2000 years, yet many of the original tiles are still intact (most images).  Starting in 1975, after the Turkish invasion and resulting embargo prevented further international support for the Salamis excavations, those teams moved here and began work on this site. They covered the site with sweeping roof structures to keep out the weather (upper left) and elevated walkways to keep tourists off the ancient floor tiles.  Of course, everywhere you go now, there will be someone (or two or more) taking selfies… (lower right)

Cyprus 3 – Salamis and Famagusta

Cyprus - Salamis

We got up early this morning to photograph Ancient Salamis, a 3,000 year old ruins on the East coast of Cyprus, in the Turkish-occupied portion of the island. The site does not officially open until 9AM, but we arrived at 8AM and were allowed in. Being that early, we were the only visitors, giving us access to all parts of the ruins without other tourists in our viewfinders.

This area was excavated from 1952 until 1974, when Turkey invaded Cyprus.  At that point, all restoration work stopped, as the international embargo prevented international groups from continuing their work. Unfortunately, all further excavation and maintenance apparently stopped at that time too. There were bushes and trees growing in the rocks in various places, and the entire site is quickly deteriorating. Visitors are even allowed to walk onto the delicate tile work.

Cyprus - Famagusta ruins

Our next stop was to the historic city center of Famagusta, surrounded by walled fortifications, which was a real delight for us. It is a city dating back to 274BC, when a major earthquake leveled Salamis, and some of the stones from Salamis were used to build Famagusta.  It is also known as “the city of 365 churches” owing to the legend that it had one church for every day of the year, at its peak.  Today, many of the churches still stand, including the elaborate Gothic Cathedral of St Nicholas (center image), which was converted in 1573 to a mosque.  It is the only Gothic mosque we have seen in our travels thus far.

Cyprus - Golden Beach

At the end of the day we drove to Teko’s Place Golden Beach, a funky little set of bungalows on the far North-East corner of Cyprus, where electricity only runs from 7PM until midnight each day.  Stepping out of our bungalow to head to the beach, we were faced with the ominous warning sign (left).  We ventured forward in the overcast weather, only to discover the only nude sunbather being the little guy who followed us (right).

Cyprus 2 – Kyrenia

Kyrenia - Dock boats water

We spent the last couple days around Kyrenia, on the North coast, in the Turkish-occupied section of Cyprus.  This is a small, picturesque town with some excellent restaurants, surrounding a small scenic harbor and ancient castle.

Kyrenia - castle shipwreck museum

Kyrenia castle, a 16th-century castle built by the Venetians, overlooks the harbor (upper two images), with a small shipwreck museum that contains a remnants of the oldest recovered shipwreck (upper middle two images).

A short distance away is Kantara Castle, a fortress located on the Kyrenia Mountain range (lower two images).

Kyrenia - dock harbor boats sundown

Returning to Kyrenia, we enjoyed a scenic sunset.

Cyprus 1 – Keep to the left!

Cyprus - resort pool keep to left

We are now in Cyprus.  The first shock was that these people drive on the left side of the road.  We have rented a car to travel around the island, and I keep having to tell myself to “Keep to the left” — particularly when I approach a car on “my” side of the road!

After a couple days of driving the island — and driving myself crazy — we stopped for a night at the Salamis Bay Conti resort.  Think Club Med and you have a pretty good idea of what this is like. Unlimited desserts. Unlimited beer and wine (though mixed drinks cost extra).  So give a little extra credit for me being able to write this after a day here…

Cyprus Kyrenia port

We spent yesterday in Kyrenia, a cute little port town on the North coast of Cyprus.  There is a small castle here, but the real treasure is the port and the food. We had some of the best seafood here since we have come to Turkey (and far better than anything in Cuenca, Ecuador!).

Turkey 17 – Historic Churches

Istanbul Churches - Christ in Chora

We also visited three other famous landmarks in Istanbul.  They had been built more than 1500 years ago, converted to mosques 600 years ago, then two were converted into museums, while the third remains as an active mosque.  The image above is the central dome from the church of St. Saviour in Chora.

Istanbul Churches - Chora

Chora is the most completely restored historic church we have seen, and is home to one of the world’s finest collections of Byzantine art, with more than 100 mosaics and frescoes.  Originally built in the 4th century AD (1700 hundred years ago!), the city was conquered in 1453, and turned into a mosque 50 years after that.  Fortunately, the Muslims did not destroy the original artwork, but only placed a layer of plaster over it.  Restoration work began in 1948, removing the plaster and exposing the gold mosaic tiles of the original art.  The lower right image above shows one of the mosaics still partially covered in plaster.

Istanbul Churches - Eyup

Eyüp Sultan Mosque was initally built as a monastery in the 5th century AD, and the village is now a place of pilgramage for muslims from all around the world.  Eyüp was conquered by the Crusaders in 1204, sustaining very little damage.  It remained a monastery until 1581, when the Ottoman Empire prohibited Christians from living in the area, and converted it into a mosque.  It is still an active mosque, and chosen as a burial site by the elite with their mausoleums lining the  streets surrounding the mosque.  The courtyard was also great for people watching.  The boy in the lower left image had just taken part in a circumcision ceremony.

Istanbul Churches - Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia is another historic Christian church, built in the 6th century AD (note the progression here, of roughly 100 years between each of these three being built).  It had the largest dome in the world for 1000 years, until the 16th century, having been converted to a mosque a century earlier.  The building is now a museum, and under active restoration (middle left shows scaffolds).

Istanbul Churches - Hagia Sophia Tombs

Of course, anywhere photography is allowed these days, selfies are sure to follow (upper left and upper center)…  This is still considered a highly religious site by both Muslims (upper right) and Christians.  Outside the church walls, the tombs of numerous sultans are free to enter and view (bottom row), and were built with intricate tile work as you might find in jewel boxes.

Turkey 16 – City Views and Lights

Istanbul Grand Bazaar Rooftop - mosque

Mehmet, the leader of our photographic tour of Turkey (www.fantasticphototours.com), took us on an afternoon walk around parts of Istanbul today.  We wandered around parts of the Grand Bazaar again, and then up a hidden set of stairs.  He talked to a guard, who at first insisted we could go no further.  As usual, Mehmet convinced him otherwise, and soon we found ourselves through a secret door, and up on the rooftop of the Bazaar.

Istanbul Grand Bazaar Rooftop - city views

The views were mesmerizing, and we couldn’t stop shooting more and more photos. This site was higher than any other location we had found to photograph the city skyline and the major mosques of the area, with views of the Süleymaniye Mosque, the New Mosque, Galata Towers, the Bosphorous and the Golden Horn inlet.

Istanbul Grand Bazaar Rooftop - weaving and Muslin pots

The path up to this hidden gem was down a corridor (upper right). As we were getting ready to leave, the guard showed us a side room with an ancient rusted weaving loom (center, plus lower left and lower center), sitting on a floor of broken tiles.  After leaving the roof, and walking back towards the street, we spotted a workshop making items to sell at the Bazaar.  Brass pots with typical Muslim crescent moon symbols were in various stages of production, and the workers welcomed us in to photograph.

Istanbul - Eminönü Pier at night

After dinner, we stayed to see the night lights at the Eminönü Pier, on the European side.  As the sun set, the lights of the floating restaurants and vendor carts were turned on and we could enjoy seeing the colors of the busy waterfront, as well as the “blue” hour, which occurs shortly after sundown.

Istanbul - Eminönü Pier Mosque at night

Turkey 15 – Museums and Mosques

Instanbul Museums and Mosques - outside

We have spent the last couple days seeing various mosques and museums.  Both are ubiquitous in Instanbul, with 2,944 active mosques, and (it sometimes seems) almost as many museums.

Instanbul Museums and Mosques - domes

Most mosques are topped by a dome that looks ordinary from the outside, but is elaborately ornate on the inside.  Many are painted, others have frescoes, and the most elaborate have tile patterns.

Instanbul Museums and Mosques - stained glass

Many of the mosques and churches also include elaborate stained glass windows, and often exotic tiles and scripts on their walls.

Instanbul Museums and Mosques - Topkapi Palace

One of the most famous palace museums is the Topkapi Palace. The palace housed a sultan with over 4000 of his people, so the grounds were immense.  Unfortunately, many interesting displays of ancient artifacts were behind very poorly lit glass, where a person had to press his nose to the glass to see anything.  Since it was crowded, that meant you saw nothing unless you were willing to go at a snail’s pace with the other tourists to view some of the jewelry.  No thanks…

To add insult, there was no photography allowed.  Why?  It was allowed up until 5 years ago, when the director of the museum released his own book with photographs of the artifacts.  He then banned photography.  You can make your own conclusion on that timing…

Instanbul Museums and Mosques - people

People watching is always fun around the public areas of any of these mosques and museums.  Most people are friendly, and willing to smile for the camera.

Instanbul Archaeological Museum - statues

Our last stop for the day was the Archaeological Museum, which was one of the best we have seen throughout out travels.  We have visited museums though out the world, but have never seen such a large display of nearly intact ancient statues, as shown above.

Instanbul Archaeological Museum - sarcophagus

The collection of sarcophagi was particularly impressive.  We have never seen more than one or two reasonably intact sarcophagus at a time, yet here were many dozens of them,  each more elaborate than the last, and all in excellent condition.

Instanbul Archaeological Museum - tomb details

Some of the details of the sarcophagi can be seen here.  Definitely a “must see” for anyone visiting Istanbul!

Turkey 14 – A Dervish Delight

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - Salute

Today we watched a Whirling Dervish performance in Istanbul. The dervish were a Muslim sect that originated in Konya, but were outlawed by the first Turkish president, Mustafa Kemel Atatürk, in 1923.  The whirling was part of a religious ceremony, in which the person was supposed to lose his ego to the wider universe.  The worshiper begins with black robes, symbolizing the ego’s shroud. He then removes the robe, revealing a white robe beneath, indicating the loss of ego and acceptance of the love of God’s unity.

Today, more than 90 years after the outlawing of any Muslim sect other than Sunni and Shiite, this performance is more “whirling for dollars” than religious.  It is a popular tourist attraction now.  We have been told repeatedly that tourism is massively depressed in recent months, due to ISIS and other concerns.  This event drove that fact home for us. This performance generally sells out early.  Tonight though, there were fewer than 30 spectators in the 200+ seats, so everyone had a front-row seat.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - still images

The dancers arrive in their black robes, which they then remove.  The leader keeps his black robe on, and wanders among the dancers.  Meanwhile, the musicians are on an upper balcony, to provide chants and instrumentals.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - whirling dancing

The dancers whirl around and around, circling the small stage.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - Dancers

They whirl until their ego has left, allowing them to be one with the universe.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - Istanbul town people

After the performance was over, we took the funicular (middle-left) down to the wharf area. We walked across the Galata bridge again, watching more fishermen (bottom images) plus one woman, as they while the time away, more as a social gathering than for catching dinner.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - selfies

Everywhere we turned, there were people taking selfies.  The days of waving down a stranger and asking them to take your photo are definitely over, with everyone seeming to own a “selfie stick” or mobile camera phone — and always there was someone willing to sell you a “selfie stick”, if you didn’t already have one (lower right image).

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - mosques

We took a ferry from the European side, where the performance was, back home to the Asian side of Istanbul.  The sun was setting and some clouds were forming during our crossing, giving us our best sunset cruise to date.

Whirling Dervish Istanbul Turkey - bridge silloette

If you would like to get a more visceral feel of the whirling dervish performance, watch the 3 minute video below:

Whirling Dervish in Istanbul April 30, 2016

Turkey 13 – The Turkish Pinch

Cookistan cooking class - local food vendors

We spent today with Aysin, from Cookistan to learn how to cook a 6-course Turkish meal.  We traveled there using Uber for the first time, which worked well in getting us directly to the meeting point, though it took 93 minutes to travel 27 km (about 16 miles) in Istanbul traffic.  With Aysin’s directions, we were able to return via subway at 1/10 the cost and less time.

We began the session with a tour around her neighborhood on the European side, stopping at various stores to learn about the foods and spices, and to pick up a few items for our upcoming meal.

One shop specialized only in the “inner parts of the animal,” and photographs of lamb brains and feet can be seen above.  At another stop, we discovered men cutting the leaves off artichokes (lower right), leaving only the “artichoke heart” for sale in markets and restaurants.  We were told that the leaves and stem are sold for animal food and preparation of cosmetics.

Cookistan Turkish cooking class in Istanbul

Upon entering Aysin’s beautiful home, we immediately saw a large preparation area set up for us (upper left), laid out with ingredients, spices and utensils for our class.  After a welcoming glass of tea, we started the lesson. Aysin told us she would show us three types of Turkish food:  Istanbul, Ottoman and Antalyean.

We started making a pumpkin dessert, because it took awhile to cook, and then had to be chilled before serving.  We then went on to learn how to cook:

  • Süleymaniye Soup (lower right)
  • Bulgur Salad
  • Cirkassian Chicken
  • Börecik (middle right)
  • Stuffed Dried Eggplants (lower left)

For each course, Aysin would make a dish, and we would then each make the same, color coding our plates so we would know who made which.  Then would come the taste test to see how they turned out.

All the foods involved a “Turkish pinch” (three fingers grabbing a lot of spice) for each of four spices (mint, medium-hot red pepper, cumin and paprika), plus black pepper and salt.  I kept holding back, thinking I was going to overpower the meal, but it seems that Turkish recipes do indeed use a lot of spice.

Each of the courses was absolutely delicious, though as you might imagine, there was way too much food to eat at one sitting.  We therefore took home several plates of the cold foods, which took care of dinner tonight and probably lunch tomorrow.

Turkey 12 – Grand Bazaar

GrandBazaar istanbul

Today we visited the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.  This is the largest covered market in the world, covering 61 streets and more than 3000 vendors.  In addition, there were many more vendors on the outside surrounding this market. There is no way that anyone can visit more than a small portion of the bazaar in a single afternoon.

It was difficult taking any photographs that would actually give a sense of the enormous scale of this place — the indoor streets are narrow, crisscrossed by overhead electrical cables, and usually packed with people.  It is estimated that between 250,000 and 400,000 people visit this bazaar every day.

GrandBazaar Istanbul Stuff to Buy

You can buy nearly anything at the bazaar.  From blue jeans, to buttons, to scarves, lights, fishing poles, ceramics, and even assault rifles. Not only is everything available to purchase, but every item is also negotiable, meaning most transactions are accompanied by a period of haggling.

GrandBazaar Food and Candy

As with the Spice Market a few blocks away, there were plenty of vendors of Turkish Delight.  We stopped at one such vendor (who spoke 12 languages!), sampled many, and ended up buying a kilo of Delight plus dried apricots, taking home the box seen in the lower right.

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