Random Walk After Two Years, Part 1

Today marks the two year anniversary of when we first moved to Ecuador.  We had visited Ecuador four times prior, and Cuenca specifically twice, but Oct 23, 2013 was the date we arrived with the intention of staying as residents.  Many people since then have asked if we expect this to be our last move.  My answer has always been the same — we did not move here to die. This is just the “next adventure” in our life, and it seemed like a good way to kick off retirement.  Some day we may find another place that calls to us, and we will move again.  It might be Europe, or another South American country, or even someplace back in the US. We do not have any long term plans, and that is exactly how we like it at this stage.  That being said, we moved to Berkeley, Calif in 1988 with the expectation of living there three to five years.  We did finally move — 26 years later, when we retired and came to Ecuador.  Who knows? We might be in Cuenca for the next 26 years too!

I thought I would wind up our second year with a collection of mural photos from around Cuenca.  I will also go on another “random walk” of ideas and thoughts about living here.  I haven’t done that in quite a long time.  The following is no particular order. It is largely “train of thought,” and if you think my train gets derailed sometimes, well, that in itself may say something about learning to live and love a South American city…  [Note: It turned out my Random Walk got a bit long, so I have broken it into two posts.]

First up. We had an earthquake last week. Woke both of us up at 5:10AM. We laid in bed feeling the building sway… then stop… then start to sway again.  Lasted a total of roughly 8 seconds. Felt like the building would fall over.  When it was done, we discovered it was a 5.6 quake centered about 50 miles from us.  No damage anywhere in the city.  I am surprised and impressed that a city built well over 100 years ago holds up so well to shakes like this.  Coming from California, I have been in several big shakes, but this felt as bad as anything I ever experienced there, and the damage was no worse (or even better) than in California.  I think Cuenca was just trying to make feel at home…

Second, politics.  I have heard lots of comments from those still in the States, wondering if Ecuador is about to explode with political turmoil, or implode with economic collapse.  Yes, there have been a few political protests lately, but nothing as violent as many in the States in recent month. And no mass killings here…  There are many challenges facing Ecuador — falling oil prices, two volcanoes likely to blow soon, el Nino looking like it may hit our coast with a bulls-eye.  I could write an entire post on the politics and economics of Ecuador, but the short story is that they will likely survive.  And if they do collapse under the Perfect Storm of problems?  We can easily pick up and move to our next adventure somewhere else.  In other words, I don’t spend a lot of time or anguish worrying about it.

Before I get off that topic though, President Correa is immensely popular in this country, and for good reason.  After 12 presidents in 15 years, including two that only lasted three days we finally have stability here.  Unlike other South American (and elsewhere) heads of state, Correa spent the money on improving schools, roads, social security, and improving the lives of the people here.  I can shake my head at some of the seemingly stupid things he says, or his occasional paranoia, but there is no denying that he has improved the country dramatically in his tenure, and there is nobody else obvious to take up the reins and continue his progress.

Back to what makes Cuenca and Ecuador special. Celebrations. Always. These are people that will celebrate almost anything at the drop of a hat. Starting next weekend, we will be celebrating Cuenca independence. After a two day battle, Cuenca became independent on November 3, 1820.  Though the battle only lasted two days, the celebration will go on for five days!  You can see an agenda listing more than 300 events over that weekend by downloading here.  With links to my blog posts from prior years, in the next couple months, we will have Dia de los Muertos, a massive Christmas parade, a very unique take on New Year’s Eve, Fiesta de los Inocentes, and of course, Carnaval.  That doesn’t even count the numerous parades and fireworks that are unannounced pretty much every week.  It is a rare week that we cannot see fireworks from our apartment windows.

And then there are frequent music activities.  The Jazz Society is less than a block away, where you can have a decent Italian meal while listening to jazz four nights a week. The music is free, though they ask for a $5 donation, to pay the musicians and provide musical training to students.  The Cuenca symphony plays roughly a dozen times per year, in various concert halls and churches around town, and is always totally free.

Tune in tomorrow for more of a rapid-fire conclusion to this Random Walk around Cuenca.

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